By Matt Quinn
Worcester Magazine
My wife and I are always happy to make the short trip down to Sturbridge when occasion calls. On this day it was to visit The Ugly Duckling restaurant, above the celebrated Whistling Swan.
Finding The Ugly Duckling is no problem -- it's right on the main drag; finding parking, however, is another matter. Although the restaurant has its own lot, we had to park at the lodge across the street. The scene inside mirrored the parking lot, but without all the sheet metal. After climbing the stairs to the loft (this could prove difficult for the disabled), we put our names in and headed over to the bar.
At the rear end of this fabulous, knotty-pine framed vintage room, up another short flight, rests a rather incongruous design feature: a sunken, lacquered bar, surrounded by wraparound leather swivel chairs.
Serving drinks to the cocktail crowd from their subterranean posts, the two bartenders working in the pit appeared surreal. I ordered a vodka martini straight up with a twist ($8), and my wife chose Hess, the house chardonnay ($7.50).
We eyed the vacant piano, envisioning the Liberace who would regale the crowd with cocktail music and witty banter, when in walked guitarist Rob Adams, a staple of many Worcester bands (he formerly played with She's Busy). Within 10 minutes he was picking away on a variety of folk-blues and folk-rock nuggets, demonstrating a fluid and filigreed technique and a smooth baritone voice.
Our table was called soon after and we were seated within earshot of Adams. The music was present but never loud, adding ambience but never interfering with conversation.
We were starving and the menu posed a dilemma: How does one choose from so many items? Although The Ugly Duckling is akin to a lounge for The Whistling Swan, the food is not pub cuisine. Simple fare is available, as are a few Americana dishes, but so are a number of more interesting meals. Families will enjoy the variety, which has appeal to both the adventurous and the finicky.
For a beverage, I picked the only micro brew on tap: a Hyland Amber, brewed in Sturbridge ($3.50). My wife refilled her house chardonnay ($7.50). From our server, Isabela, we ordered two appetizers: the Carpaccio Japponaise ($9.95); and, from a list of seven salads -- Caesar to taco -- the Nutty Blue ($7.95).
Plated in the simple elegance of Asian cuisine, complete with a celery-stalk flower planted in a mound of wasabi, the Carpaccio Japponaise comprised five paper-thin tenderloin slices with pickled ginger and soy sauce. My wife and I fought for the odd-numbered tenderloin. Isabela graciously delivered the Nutty Blue on two plates, each an ample serving. The blue cheese garlic chutney provided substantial flavor without overpowering the crisp greens and crunchy, sweet pecans.
For dinner my wife chose the grilled lamb chop special ($22.95) and I, craving pasta, opted for chicken and broccoli with a garlic cream sauce over penne ($13.95). We regretted having to pass on 20 other seemingly salacious dishes, like lobster filet mignon, fish 'n' chips, sirloin and petit filet béarnaise, not to mention 10 burgers and sandwiches.
Before we finished munching on rolls and butter, our entrees arrived; the lamb chops were of the smaller, T-bone variety, but nonetheless beautifully medium-rare, coated with delicious garlic-rosemary butter, and sided by a dollop of butternut squash and roasted potatoes. The chicken and broccoli was a heaping mound of moist sautéed chicken and vivid, firm broccoli florets over a rich, creamy sauce.
The meals were a satisfying culmination to our dining experience. We might've returned to the sunken lounge for another drink if I didn't have my own gig to get to back in Worcester. So, as Rob Adams continued to regale the crowd, we bolted down the stairs and across the street to our waiting vehicle. All told, the meal came to $84.59 before tip. We felt it to be a fair price for the above-average food, vintage atmosphere, live music and cocktails.
Whistling Swan makes sweet music
By Gina Salvadori
Worcester Magazine
The Whistling Swan is a fine, festive place to celebrate a special occasion. And you’ll certainly be celebrating what is some of the most delicious food in Worcester County.
Sal and I made the 25-minute drive from Worcester on a blustery Saturday night. The restaurant’s four white pillars glowed, and as we pulled into the driveway, we could see through an enormous window that the party had begun early in the upstairs bar, cheerfully named the Ugly Duckling.
We selected a light Chianti from a short but varied wine list. From a dozen intriguing appetizers, we chose the Scallop and Bacon Martini ($14), even though it was described as “deep fried” and Sal was clamoring for stuffed mushrooms ($12). Five scallops, fried just to crisp the applewood-smoked bacon that encased them, were nestled in a martini glass atop baby greens.
Our server, Danny, brought a basket of house-made bread – rustic chunks scented with rosemary that we dipped in garlic oil, and a cakelike cornbread we slathered with whipped butter.
A Caesar salad relied on the robust flavors of lemon and parmesan to dress crunchy lettuce, rather than the goopy stuff that so often ruins perfectly innocent romaine.
Specials included a tempting seafood scampi for $29 and lamb shank for $27, but the regular menu offered rare breadth. The 16 choices included such classics as sole francaise ($21), rack of lamb ($31), and veal Oscar ($29).
On Danny’s recommendation, Sal selected the Whistling Swan Specialty: Lobster Filet Mignon ($37), and I chose the grilled duck breast ($24).
Now, don’t get us wrong: We’re red-blooded American carnivores. But the truth is, faced with a beautifully plated duck (which I love) and a perfectly cooked filet (which Sal loves) topped with giant chunks of lobster (ditto), we exclaimed, “Look at those vegetables!” Beside the protein sat a vibrant mélange of summer squash, crisp snow peas, and vinegary roasted red peppers, tossed in a buttery, garlicky sauce.
The Specialty featured a horseradish cream sauce that was mild enough to complement the beef while not overwhelming the tasty lobster.
The duck was sprinkled with candied orange zest and orange ginger glaze applied with the light hand that seems to be the signature here.
We talk about food all the time, but as the dining room filled, we weren’t the only ones. A table of four briefly exchanged anniversary wishes, then debated the merits of the grilled pork tenderloin ($28) versus the filet mignon béarnaise ($27). Another party marveled over the house salad with a creamy cucumber tomato dressing ($6).
Every aspect of the Whistling Swan conspires to make the food shine. The dining room is comfortable, albeit a little fussy. You won’t be distracted by spotted glassware, music that’s too loud or too soft, heat, cold, or any of the other flaws about which we usually complain.
Those who judge restaurant value by the pound will be disappointed. We took home leftovers out of habit, but these were no super-sized platters extended by buckets of mashed potatoes or pasta. Our dollop of red bliss mashed was just a delicious accent.
The extraordinarily professional waitstaff is glad we’re here to share this wonderful food. The building is clearly historical — but enough about that! The menu barely mentions the building, let alone its significance in American history.
We’d readily recommend The Whistling Swan. But unless you’re celebrating, say, pumpkin bread pudding ($7.50, and topped with strawberries, brown sugar, and vanilla ice cream), you might want to save your visit for a time when you are less distracted by all the choices.
The Whistling Swan Restaurant, for fine countryside dining
By Marney O’ Brien
Contributing Writer
Community Advocate
Region – On a lovely Sunday afternoon. A friend and I drove out to historic Sturbridge for an early dinner at the Whistling Swan Restaurant. We arrived without the recommended reservation and were immediately ushered into the dining room and seated by a window overlooking the patio. The waiter presented menus and asked for our drink order; both of us chose a soft drink ($1.95).
We sipped our drinks and nibbled on bread and rolls as we perused the menus, which were full of gourmet selections. The specials menu offered a choice chicken gumbo or lentil soup, an appetizer of penne carbonara, two entrées – grilled porterhouse steak or roast pork – and blueberry peach pie a la mode. The entrées ranged from $18.95 to 23.95.
The regular menu displayed a worldwide range of appetizers, included gyoza, Japanese dumplings, smoked Scottish salmon, French escargot, championes (Mexican inspired mushrooms), crab cakes and shrimp cocktail (ranging from $6.95 to $12.95)
Opting for salads instead, my companion ordered the mixed baby field with crumbled blue cheese dressing (3.95 when ordered with an entrée), while I opted for the nutty blue – romaine tossed with crunchy sweet pecans ($7.50). Both were huge, fresh & tasty.
The entrée listing tempted the taste buds with the likes of breaded chicken, seared duck, pork loin filet, rack of lamb, lobster cannelloni, lobster filet mignon, grilled salmon, Tuscan seafood and roasted Portobello mushrooms (ranging from $16.95 to $30.95).
My friend decided on the filet mignon pouvrade, a half-pound filet broiled with a veal glace laced with a touch of cream, peppercorns and bourbon (19.95). She requested the béarnaise sauce instead (an additional $1.25). A twice baked potato and asparagus and summer squash sautéed with herbs rounded out her meal. She found the steak very tender and cooked just as she ordered, and the vegetables were perfect.
My choice was the lemon and herb crusted scrod baked with white wine and butter and topped with lemon and dill breadcrumbs ($19.95). The filet was cooked to perfection, light and flaky, and was served with the vegetable mix and saffron rice pilaf. Because the filet was so large, I saved half for another day.
It was time for a pleasant ending to the experience with dessert and coffee. The list included cheesecake, blueberry bread pudding, strawberries and cream, white chocolate mousse, cheesecake topped with strawberries and chocolate walnut butterscotch brownie alamode. We picked ice cream profiteroles, three puff pastries stuffed with vanilla ice cream and served with a chocolate sauce and whipped cream ($7) to enjoy with our coffee ($1.95).
The Whistling Swan is a lovely restaurant offering a varied gourmet menu. It is well situated on Sturbridge’s Main Street, open seven days a week, just down the road from Old Sturbridge Village. The ambience is lovely and the service impeccable. Our food was great and totaled $70.19 excluding the tip – perfect for a special occasion.
The Whistling Swan & The Ugly Duckling Loft is now and has always been one of our favorite restaraunts in Sturbridge. The Loft has the best bar in the area and live entertainment. The Staff is very friendly and professional and the food is excellent.
The Bussey's/Chestnut Hill
